- How does the battery compare to the vehicle’s original battery (not applicable when modifications have been made to the vehicle).
- Is the battery a Maintenance Free battery or a conventional battery.
- Compare the electrical ratings of the battery i.e. cranking Amp and Reserve Capacity / Amp hour Ratings. (Note – Batteries with Cranking Amps rated at a higher temperature, or for a period shorter than 30 secs will give a false impression that the battery has a higher cranking performance).
- What type of warranty of is offered i.e. Full Replacement Warranty or Prorated Warranty (prorated warranty means that you will be required to pay a reduced price for a replacement battery in the event of battery failure).
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY AND A CONVENTIONAL BATTERY?
The name says it all. A Maintenance Free Battery requires little to no Maintenance during its normal service life. Water evaporation is minimal, and as such the battery is also less prone to corrosion at the connectors. Conventional batteries require constant "topping up" with battery water and the connectors often become corroded thereby reducing the flow of current to and from your battery.
DOES A BATTERY NEED TO BE COMPLETELY SEALED TO BE CONSIDERED MAINTENANCE FREE?
The answer in one word is no. What makes a battery maintenance free is primarily the materials used in manufacturing the internal components of the battery.
IF I USE A HIGHER CRANKING AMP BATTERY WILL IT LAST LONGER?
There is no evidence to show that a battery with higher cranking amps than the OE recommended battery will improve performance or life expectancy in standard operating vehicles.
I HAVE INSTALLED ADDITIONAL ACCESSORIES IN MY VEHICLE (SOUNDSYSTEMS ETC.) SO I NEED A HIGHER CRANKING AMP BATTERY!
This is not true. The cranking amp rating on a battery only indicates how much current the battery can deliver for a very short period just to start the vehicle. Where additional accessories are concerned your attention should be on the Reserve Capacity / Amp Hour ratings of the battery. These ratings indicate the ability of the battery to provide power for a longer period of time. Depending on the application, a Deep Cycle battery should be considered as these batteries can be discharged repeatedly without sustaining significant damage. Depending on the extent of the aftermarket accessories that are installed in the vehicle, you may need to upgrade your vehicle's charging system.
- If the vehicle is parked for extended periods of time (starting your vehicle and running for a few minutes may not always return your battery to a fully recharged state).
- If the vehicle has been difficult to start at times. This may indicate the use of an undersized battery, loose or corroded connections or a malfunctioning starter – any of which could shorten the battery’s service life.
- If the battery tray needs to be regularly washed free of corrosion or electrolyte. This may indicate overcharging of the battery or excessive heat in the battery compartment.
- The battery is being used in an application for which it was not designed – e.g. a standard automotive starter battery being used in a recreational vehicle designed for deep cycle batteries.
- The battery is not sized properly for the application i.e. the Cranking Performance and Reserve Capacity ratings should at least be equal to the vehicle’s original requirements.
- The battery is not properly fitted into the vehicle. This may occur if battery clamps, battery terminals and heat shields (where applicable) are not properly installed in the vehicle.
- If additional accessories have been installed in the vehicle without upgrading the electrical system. Your vehicle’s charging system was designed to power standard accessories – any changes and additions to your vehicle’s accessories without upgrading your electrical system may result in premature battery failure not covered by warranty
BCI Group Number
The BCI Group number on a battery is a universal code that indicates the physical characteristics of the battery. i.e. dimensions and polarity. It does not however have any bearing on the electrical ratings of the battery, therefore you can have two batteries with identical BCI numbers but different current ratings. This number is used mainly on batteries manufactured or distributed in North America.
Cold Cranking Amps
The Cold Cranking Amp rating on a battery represents the amount of amperage that a battery at 0*F can deliver for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts (for a 12V battery).
The Cranking Amp rating on a battery represents the amount of amperage that a battery at 0*C can deliver for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts (for a 12V battery).
The Ampere-Hour on a battery is determined by multiplying the current flow in amperes by the time of discharge, in hours, until it drops to a voltage of 10.5V. The ampere-hour rating of a battery is usually based on a 20-hr discharge @80*F. So if a 12V battery 80*F delivers 4 amps for 20 hours before its voltage drops below 10.5 volts, its ampere-hour rating will be 4 amps x 20hrs = 80 Ampere-Hour battery.
Reserve Capacity (RC)
Reserve Capacity is similar to Ampere-Hour except that it is rated in minutes and is based on a specific current draw. The reserve capacity rating on a battery is determined by the amount of time (in minutes) a battery at 80*F can deliver 25 amps before its voltage drops below 10.5 Volts.
Deep cycle batteries, commonly used in marine /rv and recreational applications are called upon to deliver many various depths of discharge. In some cases a battery may be drained to zero capacity before it is recharged whereas an automotive battery provides short bursts of power before the alternator of the vehicle takes over. Deep cycle batteries are designed to withstand these repetitive cycles and continue to provide their rated capacity after hundreds of cycles.
Maintenance Free Battery
A maintenance free battery (or low water loss battery) is a wet cell lead acid battery that does not require routine maintenance (or topping up) during its regular service life under normal working conditions. Because of the reduced evaporation of electrolyte, corrosion levels are also drastically reduced or non existent, making the battery truly maintenance free.
- Wear proper clothing to protect your face hands & body
- Make sure the work area is well ventilated.
- Never lean over the battery while boosting, starting, testing or charging.
- Cigarettes, flames or sparks could cause a battery to explode. Keep all ignition sources away from the battery.
- Always shield eyes and face from battery.
- Do not charge or use booster cables or adjust post connections without proper instructions and training.
- KEEP VENT CAPS TIGHT AND LEVEL.
- In the event of accident, flush any affected area with water and call a physician immediately.
Your car’s battery contains Lead and Sulfuric acid, both considered harmful to our environment. As such your old battery should not be left around the house or put in the garbage. At Pro Battery Shops we offer competitive rates for scrap automotive, marine and commercial batteries starting at $15.00 for regular car batteries. We ensure that your scrap batteries are sent for proper recycling with our battery manufacturer, thereby keeping them out of landfills and helping to save our planet for future generations
STEP 1. Ensure Both vehicles’ ignition switches are in the off position. Failure to do so may result in an unsafe spark when connecting the jumper cables which could cause the battery to explode.
STEP 2. Connect the positive (red) cable to the dead battery and the assisting battery.
STEP 3. Connect the negative (black) cable to the assisting battery and then connect the other end to a metal ground on the vehicle with the dead battery (the engine block will be ideal).
STEP 4. Allow to sit for a brief moment and then start the assisting vehicle.
STEP 5. Attempt to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If the vehicle does not start, switch off assisting vehicle and check all connections before attempting again